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Futura Brings Street Cred to Nike's Breaking Collection

The sounds of an unfamiliar beat shook  the cobblestones in the City of Lights.

"When I found out that breaking was going to debut as an event in Paris 40 years later, everything lined up beautifully."

Bridging Culture and Character

In the world of breaking, few artists have been so integrated into the dance style’s rise as Futura. He rose to prominence in the ’70s as a new wave of underground NYC painters claimed the city. Futura’s art stood out among his peers. He introduced a kind of abstraction to graffiti in a time when it was mostly a letter-based discipline. Where he distinguished himself, he says, was how he interpreted those abstractions into characters, most notably the Pointman — almost extraterrestrial, grounded in poses that demanded to be contemplated. This inspired his contributions to the three Nike federation kits.

“Even though the countries have individual competitors, each of the federations seemed to me to belong to the same family. The kits would form one collection with three nations,” says Futura. “So how would each federation define a specific creative idea? I decided that each one would have its own character, or mascot.”

One benefit of using characters as a muse, he says, is how they naturally embody certain traits, attributes and skills in ways that an abstract design might not. Each of the mascots for the kits had to characterize the physical experiencing of breaking. Words like kinetic and fluid came to his mind. Atmospheric, a label that Futura uses to describe his art, naturally applies to the sight of a breaker at work; an airy lightness guides every move they make. 

Another term central to Futura’s process was athletic. Elite breakers show off an athleticism on par with the world’s best gymnasts. In reflecting an airy motion among his mascots, Futura pays respect to the incredible physical abilities of the breakers competing in Paris. 

“Artists in hip-hop have huge respect for what breakers are able to pull off,” says Futura. “Breakers are the ones pushing the limits of their bodies. Graffiti artists, DJs, MCs — we’re all afforded a longevity in our careers that breakers don’t have.” A breaker could blow out an ACL, Futura notes, and their career is over — but that doesn’t stop breakers from doing what they love. It’s also why, he adds, this Nike apparel collection had to serve the needs of breakers. “On the garments, my characters had to symbolize a physicality, the way they’re putting their bodies on the line,” he says.

Nike designers also asked Futura for his detailed feedback on the Nike Jam, a shoe developed with the feedback of hundreds of breakers who visited the LeBron James Innovation Building to embark on cutting-edge testing. The Nike Sport Research Lab supplied the rationale for many of the shoe’s technical details, such as which areas of the outsole to reinforce based on how much force breakers put on certain areas of their foot. Futura’s contribution was largely in recommending the shoe’s material choices — leathers on the panel overlays for a premium feel, suede over the eyestays for durability, chenille hits on the tongue for an unexpected touch of comfort. Breakers couldn’t feel like they were performing in an Alphafly, after all. A specific look and feeling had to come together in a delicate balance.  

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"Artists in hip-hop have huge respect for what breakers are able to pull off. Breakers are the ones pushing the limits of their bodies."

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